The Wines of Ischia

Recently I spent a few days on the island of Ischia. Ischia is the largest island in the Gulf of Naples. It was settled around 700 BC and was one of the first settlements of the Magna Grecia. Due to the volcanic origins of the island, there are 29 thermal basins from which 103 springs derive. Viticulture has always existed here.

The rich volcanic soils, sunny days and marine breezes create a perfect environment for the vine. Just don’t expect to find varieties that you’re familiar with. Autochthonous grapes rule the island. The wines of Ischia were also some of the first in Italy to receive DOC recognition.

The main variety in Ischia Bianco is Biancolella. This is an ancient vine which, according to some, originated in Corsica where it is still cultivated and known as Petite Blanche. It was introduced to Ischia by the ancient Greek society Pithecusa and it adapted immediately to the growing conditions on the island. The other white variety found on the island is Forastera. The name suggests it is ‘from the forest’. Its origins are unclear and there are no mentions of this variety until about 1870. Along with Biancolella, it is a large part of Ischia Bianco DOC and can be also found on its own.

The island also has red varieties. Piedirosso or Pèr ‘e Palummo, also has ancient origins. Many feel that this is the same as the Colombina variety mentioned by Pliny the Elder. The variety gets its name from the color the stalks turn right before harvest, ‘red like the feet of a dove’. You find this variety throughout Campania in the DOC’s of Capri, Ischia Rosso, Costa D’Amalfi, Irpinia, Penisola Sorrentina, Sannio, Taburno and Vesuvio. The other red variety found on the island is Guarnaccia. While its exact origins are unknown, they are believed to also be of Greek origin and some feel it is related to Grenache. It is usually blended with Piedirosso in Ischia Rosso DOC.

Ischia wines are known for their bouquet. Oregano, rosemary, ginestra flower, wild fennel and wild herbs are some of the typical aromas of these wines. As one can imagine, a great deal of seafood is available on the island but one of the islands’ specialties is rabbit done Ischia style.

Stylistically, the wines are light and crisp. A perfect accompaniment to the local foods and the weather. While finding these wines outside of the area may be challenging, some producers to look for are Pietratorcia and D’Ambra. D’Ambra’s ‘Tenuta Frassitelli’ Biancolella and ‘Euposia’ Forastera are ones to look for.

If you find yourself touring the area, a few relaxing days in Ischia may be just what you need to recharge. I recommend some local wine and a large plate of peppered mussels (Impepata di Cozze) after a spa day. Doesn’t get much better than that.

Barolo Chinato - The Bartender's Bacon

Not long ago a bartender friend of mine approached me with a cocktail recipe he had come across. One of the ingredients was a wine that he was unfamiliar with and wanted to know if I knew what it was. The wine was Barolo Chinato.

Barolo Chinato is a digestive wine from the Piedmont region of Italy typically served after dinner. It is made by steeping the bark of the cinchona tree (quinine) in aged Barolo. Each producer then flavors the wine with his own blend of herbs such as cinnamon, mint, vanilla, coriander even iris flowers. To say that it is an acquired taste is a bit of an understatement. If you’ve ever had the Italian soda pop Chinotto, then you’ve got an idea as to the flavor of this wine.

I had never thought of using it as a cocktail ingredient but once presented with the idea I could see the potential. The difficulty however, is finding the wine outside of Italy.

Over the holidays I ended up with a less than ideal bottle of Prosecco. Not wanting it to go to waste, I added a splash of Barolo Chinato. That mediocre wine was made drinkable and an Italian version of the Champagne cocktail was born.

I was so thrilled with my discovery I immediately messaged my bartender friend. His reply……...It’s like Bartender’s Bacon. Goes with everything.

Sicily - Etna DOC

Recently, I have seen an increased interest in Sicilian wines.  The terroir and the indigenous varietals of the area make for wines that are a nice change from the classic varietals.  I thought a bit of info about this wine region could help.

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and it is surrounded by a series of smaller islands including those of Lipari and Pantelleria.  The island is mountainous, 80% of the land is covered by mountains and you can see Mt Etna from virtually everywhere.  There are active volcanoes found throughout the smaller islands with those of Ustica and Pantelleria being inactive.  Mt Etna was very active last year with a series of eruptions.

Viticulture has existed here since the 7^th Century BC.  The Phoenicians were making wine here in the 8^th and 9^th Century BC.  Further developments came with the Greeks in the 3^rd Century BC when Sicily’s port became the most important wine emporium of the Mediterranean.  After the phylloxera outbreak, most all the vines were replanted with approximately 43.5% of the vines being less than 20 years old.  Most of Sicily’s viticulture is concentrated on the West Coast in the province of Trapani and the climate is typically Mediterranean with little precipitation.  Sicily lacks lakes and major rivers.

Sicilian wines have seen an increase in popularity over the last 20 years thanks in part to the increase of quality wines being produced.  One of the areas which is seeing an increase of quality producers is the Etna DOC.  Some of the islands’ most important producers are here.  Tasca, Planeta, Duca di Salaparuta, and Firrato.  Notable producers from other regions of Italy (Tuscany being one) are also attracted to this area.  Its unique climatic conditions and volcanic soils result in wines that are vibrant and rich in personality.  The excellent 2008 vintage helped draw attention to this area and we are only now starting to see its potential.  Super Sicilians perhaps?

The Etna DOC is produced in the province of Catania which is on the Ionian Sea.  The vines grow on the Eastern Slopes of Mt Etna and its unique terroir is made up of old vines planted alberello style up to 1000 m (3,280 ft) in the volcanic soils surrounding the volcano.  These vines are exposed to strong thermal air exchanges as well as sea breezes.  There are some very interesting wines being produced here with elegant bouquets that result in wines that are almost more northern in style.  More fresh and fragrant than alcoholic and overripe.

The white wines are predominately made with the local grape Carricante.  This grape has Sicilian origins and its name derives from its abundant production.  Up until the end of the 1800’s this grape was cultivated throughout the island but now it is found mainly in the Catania area.  The wines are straw yellow in color and have a delicate floral bouquet.

The red wines are made with a combination of Nerello Cappuccio and Nerello Mascalese.  The name Nerello derives from the color of the vine which is blackish.  Nero is the Italian word for black.  This very simple way of identifying vines dates back to the times of Pliny the Elder.

Nerello Cappuccio is so named because of the cap, like a hood, that would grow and hide the bunches from sight.  Cappuccio means hood in Italian.  This particular varietal isn’t often vinified on its own.  It is usually found as part of a blend with Nerello Mascalese.  If found on its own, it results in a light ruby red wine, high in alcohol and not excessively tannic.

Nerello Mascalese gets its name from its place of origin.  The varietal is at least 150 years old.  These vines are grown ‘alberello’ (small tree) as opposed to the more common vine training methods.  The reason for this is to help contain this vines vigor.  This varietal is used throughout the Etna area and can be found vinified as a white, rose’ as well as a traditional red wine.  The reds are an intense ruby red with a delicate nose with strong violet notes.

The white wines of Etna are the perfect accompaniment to seafood dishes while the reds work well with pastas, roasts, strong cheeses and all types of salamis.

I hope that this has inspired you to give the wines of Etna a try.

Cortona DOC

The Cortona area of Tuscany landed on everyone's radar with the Frances Mayes book Under The Tuscan Sun.  Since then people have been flocking to the town and the surrounding area.

The Cortona DOC is located in the Tuscan province of Arezzo and more specifically in the Cortona commune (municipality/township).  In order for a wine to be labeled Cortona DOC, the grapes must come from this specific area of Tuscany and only certain varietals are allowed.  Besides Sangiovese, which is the red varietal found throughout Tuscany, Syrah has a huge presence in Cortona.

In a country with more indigenous varietals than any other, having an international varietal like Syrah as the backbone of a DOC is unusual.  The explanation however is very simple.  The Syrah vines have been in this area for centuries.  Long before the current wine law system.  French soldiers who had settled in this area brought the vines with them and those plantings thrived.  And along with Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  In fact, the wine laws recently changed to reflect that.  Not long ago the allowable varietals in the Cortona DOC (red) were Sangiovese 40-60% and Canaiolo Nero 10-30%.  Both traditional Tuscan varietals.  The current regulations are Syrah 50-60% and Merlot 10-20%.  If a varietal is stated on the label then the wine must contain at least 85% of that varietal.

The Syrah's from this area are really great examples of the varietal.  With red and black berries, chocolate, coffee and white pepper, plus nuances of spices, tar and tobacco. The difficulty will be finding them outside of Tuscany.