Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Cortona DOC

The Cortona area of Tuscany landed on everyone's radar with the Frances Mayes book Under The Tuscan Sun.  Since then people have been flocking to the town and the surrounding area.

The Cortona DOC is located in the Tuscan province of Arezzo and more specifically in the Cortona commune (municipality/township).  In order for a wine to be labeled Cortona DOC, the grapes must come from this specific area of Tuscany and only certain varietals are allowed.  Besides Sangiovese, which is the red varietal found throughout Tuscany, Syrah has a huge presence in Cortona.

In a country with more indigenous varietals than any other, having an international varietal like Syrah as the backbone of a DOC is unusual.  The explanation however is very simple.  The Syrah vines have been in this area for centuries.  Long before the current wine law system.  French soldiers who had settled in this area brought the vines with them and those plantings thrived.  And along with Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  In fact, the wine laws recently changed to reflect that.  Not long ago the allowable varietals in the Cortona DOC (red) were Sangiovese 40-60% and Canaiolo Nero 10-30%.  Both traditional Tuscan varietals.  The current regulations are Syrah 50-60% and Merlot 10-20%.  If a varietal is stated on the label then the wine must contain at least 85% of that varietal.

The Syrah's from this area are really great examples of the varietal.  With red and black berries, chocolate, coffee and white pepper, plus nuances of spices, tar and tobacco. The difficulty will be finding them outside of Tuscany.

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