Sicily - Etna DOC

Recently, I have seen an increased interest in Sicilian wines.  The terroir and the indigenous varietals of the area make for wines that are a nice change from the classic varietals.  I thought a bit of info about this wine region could help.

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and it is surrounded by a series of smaller islands including those of Lipari and Pantelleria.  The island is mountainous, 80% of the land is covered by mountains and you can see Mt Etna from virtually everywhere.  There are active volcanoes found throughout the smaller islands with those of Ustica and Pantelleria being inactive.  Mt Etna was very active last year with a series of eruptions.

Viticulture has existed here since the 7^th Century BC.  The Phoenicians were making wine here in the 8^th and 9^th Century BC.  Further developments came with the Greeks in the 3^rd Century BC when Sicily’s port became the most important wine emporium of the Mediterranean.  After the phylloxera outbreak, most all the vines were replanted with approximately 43.5% of the vines being less than 20 years old.  Most of Sicily’s viticulture is concentrated on the West Coast in the province of Trapani and the climate is typically Mediterranean with little precipitation.  Sicily lacks lakes and major rivers.

Sicilian wines have seen an increase in popularity over the last 20 years thanks in part to the increase of quality wines being produced.  One of the areas which is seeing an increase of quality producers is the Etna DOC.  Some of the islands’ most important producers are here.  Tasca, Planeta, Duca di Salaparuta, and Firrato.  Notable producers from other regions of Italy (Tuscany being one) are also attracted to this area.  Its unique climatic conditions and volcanic soils result in wines that are vibrant and rich in personality.  The excellent 2008 vintage helped draw attention to this area and we are only now starting to see its potential.  Super Sicilians perhaps?

The Etna DOC is produced in the province of Catania which is on the Ionian Sea.  The vines grow on the Eastern Slopes of Mt Etna and its unique terroir is made up of old vines planted alberello style up to 1000 m (3,280 ft) in the volcanic soils surrounding the volcano.  These vines are exposed to strong thermal air exchanges as well as sea breezes.  There are some very interesting wines being produced here with elegant bouquets that result in wines that are almost more northern in style.  More fresh and fragrant than alcoholic and overripe.

The white wines are predominately made with the local grape Carricante.  This grape has Sicilian origins and its name derives from its abundant production.  Up until the end of the 1800’s this grape was cultivated throughout the island but now it is found mainly in the Catania area.  The wines are straw yellow in color and have a delicate floral bouquet.

The red wines are made with a combination of Nerello Cappuccio and Nerello Mascalese.  The name Nerello derives from the color of the vine which is blackish.  Nero is the Italian word for black.  This very simple way of identifying vines dates back to the times of Pliny the Elder.

Nerello Cappuccio is so named because of the cap, like a hood, that would grow and hide the bunches from sight.  Cappuccio means hood in Italian.  This particular varietal isn’t often vinified on its own.  It is usually found as part of a blend with Nerello Mascalese.  If found on its own, it results in a light ruby red wine, high in alcohol and not excessively tannic.

Nerello Mascalese gets its name from its place of origin.  The varietal is at least 150 years old.  These vines are grown ‘alberello’ (small tree) as opposed to the more common vine training methods.  The reason for this is to help contain this vines vigor.  This varietal is used throughout the Etna area and can be found vinified as a white, rose’ as well as a traditional red wine.  The reds are an intense ruby red with a delicate nose with strong violet notes.

The white wines of Etna are the perfect accompaniment to seafood dishes while the reds work well with pastas, roasts, strong cheeses and all types of salamis.

I hope that this has inspired you to give the wines of Etna a try.