Thursday, October 13, 2011

Nebbiolo - The King of the Piedmont

As winter approaches, our choice of foods tend to lean towards meals that are hearty. Pastas with rich meat sauces, stews and for some of you, perhaps even game. With these types of foods you need a wine that can hold its own. A red wine with substance. Wines made with the Nebbiolo grape are a good choice.

Piedmont, which means foot of the mountain, is located in Italy’s Northwest. The Alps divide it from France. The region is made up of many mountains and foothills with most of the land too steep or cold to grow vines. That said, the region is currently home to 16 DOCG and 43 DOC wines, the leader in Italy. Tuscany comes in second with 9 DOCG and 38 DOC wines. While wine is produced throughout the Piedmont, its best wines are produced in the warmer regions further south, especially the two southeastern hill ranges of the Langhe and Monferrato.

In the Langhe region, near the town of Alba (famous for its white truffles), you can find the tiny villages of Barolo and Barbaresco. Barolo and Barbaresco wines are both DOCG wines and as such have to follow specific guidelines. The most important of which is the area of production. Both of these wines are produced in specific areas of the Langhe and the province of Cuneo and are 100% Nebbiolo.


The Nebbiolo grape is a very difficult grape to grow. It is a late-ripening variety which often ends up being harvested very late in the season. Nebbia is the Italian word for fog and the Nebbiolo grape derives its name from the fog that settles over the area during harvest time. It is a grape that is very high in tannins which make the wines produced from this grape very difficult to drink young. Barbaresco has a mandatory aging of 26 months of which 9 are in the barrel. The Riserva has a 50 month mandatory aging (9 in barrel). Barolo is aged 38 months with 18 of those in the barrel. The Riserva is aged 62 months (18 in barrel).

Traditionally, large chestnut barrels were used but this wood imparted harsh tannins into the wine. This made the wine even more difficult to drink young. Today, French Oak barrels are more commonly used and coupled with modern vinification techniques, the wine is drinkable sooner. That being said, both Barolo and Barbaresco wines can be aged up to 20 years. Some even longer and the general rule of thumb is not to drink these wines until they are at least 10 years old.

There are many other wines from the Piedmont made with the Nebbiolo grape. Here are some others to look for. Please note that not all of these are 100% Nebbiolo, some are blended with other local varietals. Vespolina and Bonarda are the most popular.
DOCGs Gattinara, Ghemme and Roero
DOC’s Albugnano, Boca, Bramaterra, Canavese, Carema, Fara, Langhe, Monferrato and Nebbiolo d’Alba.


On some bottles you may find the names bricco or sori. In the Piedmontese dialect, bricco means the sun-catching crest of the hill and sori is the south-facing slope. Producer Ceretto has a Barolo called Bricco Rocche, which is from the vineyard of the same name and Angelo Gaja has a Barbaresco called Sori Tildin. Piedmont has much in common with France’s Burgundy region. They both focus on one main grape (Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir) and each producer tends to have small landholdings.

There are many fine producers of both Barolo and Barbaresco. Some Barolo producers to look for include Aldo Conterno, Luigi Einaudi, Paolo Scavino, Fontanafredda, Batasiolo, Anselma and Pio Cesare. Barbaresco producers include Marchesi di Gresy, Moccagatta. The following produce both. Bruno Giacosa, Gaja, and Prunotto.

For your next dinner party, make it Piedmont themed. Cook some hearty dishes and have each guest bring a different Nebbiolo based wine. Have a different wine glass for each and taste them all with the meal and see how they compare. Pour the wines in order of age, from youngest to oldest. Set a price point for the wines just to make it fair.

Sounds like a great way to stay warm this winter.

Salute!

No comments: