Monday, December 15, 2008

When good wines goes bad.

A few years ago I took a trip to Avignon in France. In 1309, Pope Clement the 5th, left Rome and brought the papacy to Avignon. A summer palace was soon built in what is now commonly known as Chateauneuf-du-Pape (literally translated means New Castle of the Pope). Most of you have probably tasted or at least heard of the wine by the same name. So, it was only logical that I visit the site during my trip.

The wine comes from a major appellation of the same name in the Southern Rhone. This region has a very strong wind that blows through called the mistral. I got to experience this wind first hand during my visit and it is quite potent. There were a few times it almost knocked me off my feet and wine consumption had nothing to do with it. The vines stand like small bushes, low to the ground and the trunks are twisted and gnarled from fighting the wind.


When one thinks of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, it's as a red wine. The wine is actually made up of 13 varietals (14 if you count the the white and red grenache independently). Of the 14, 6 are white varietals. The predominant grape in this area is Grenache and it is the base for Chateauneuf-du-Pape. There are very few producers that use all 14 varietals anymore. Chateau Beaucastel is one of the producers that still does.

During my trip, I discovered that Chateauneuf-du-Pape is also produced as a white wine. It is one of the most enjoyable whites I've had. There is a restaurant near the remains of the Popes' Chateau and it was there that I enjoyed a glass of white Chateauneuf-du-Pape with a plate of local cheeses. As I had never seen this wine before I had to bring some home. I went to a wine shop in the village and I purchased a 1999 Chateau Beaucastel White Chateauneuf-du-Pape.Instead of drinking it immediately, I decided to wait to let the wine reach it's peak. After doing some research, I figured it would hold until 2009. Unfortunately, it didn't.


I was doing some inventory in my wine cellar the other day and I came across the bottle. I thought now was as good a time as any to enjoy it. The sad thing was that it was past it's prime. The wine was very amber in color and it resembled a Marsala wine to the taste. You may be familiar with the Sicilian wine Marsala if you've ever had veal scalloppine cooked in it at an Italian restaurant. Marsala is a great wine but it's not the flavour I want in my white Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Needless to say I was very disappointed. I had been looking forward to this wine for a long time but I waited too long.


So, the moral of the story is, always buy two bottles. Drink one several years before you think it's ready and if it appears to still have the structure, keep the other one a bit longer.

I also have a 1997 Red Chateauneuf-du-Pape that needs drinking. It was a strange year so I bought it to see how it would develop in time. I guess I best get to it. I'll keep you posted.

Oh and for all you keeners, the 14 varietals are as follows
Red: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Muscardin, Counoise, Vaccarèse, Terret Noir.
White: Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Picpoul, Picardan

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