The Wines of Ischia

Recently I spent a few days on the island of Ischia. Ischia is the largest island in the Gulf of Naples. It was settled around 700 BC and was one of the first settlements of the Magna Grecia. Due to the volcanic origins of the island, there are 29 thermal basins from which 103 springs derive. Viticulture has always existed here.

The rich volcanic soils, sunny days and marine breezes create a perfect environment for the vine. Just don’t expect to find varieties that you’re familiar with. Autochthonous grapes rule the island. The wines of Ischia were also some of the first in Italy to receive DOC recognition.

The main variety in Ischia Bianco is Biancolella. This is an ancient vine which, according to some, originated in Corsica where it is still cultivated and known as Petite Blanche. It was introduced to Ischia by the ancient Greek society Pithecusa and it adapted immediately to the growing conditions on the island. The other white variety found on the island is Forastera. The name suggests it is ‘from the forest’. Its origins are unclear and there are no mentions of this variety until about 1870. Along with Biancolella, it is a large part of Ischia Bianco DOC and can be also found on its own.

The island also has red varieties. Piedirosso or Pèr ‘e Palummo, also has ancient origins. Many feel that this is the same as the Colombina variety mentioned by Pliny the Elder. The variety gets its name from the color the stalks turn right before harvest, ‘red like the feet of a dove’. You find this variety throughout Campania in the DOC’s of Capri, Ischia Rosso, Costa D’Amalfi, Irpinia, Penisola Sorrentina, Sannio, Taburno and Vesuvio. The other red variety found on the island is Guarnaccia. While its exact origins are unknown, they are believed to also be of Greek origin and some feel it is related to Grenache. It is usually blended with Piedirosso in Ischia Rosso DOC.

Ischia wines are known for their bouquet. Oregano, rosemary, ginestra flower, wild fennel and wild herbs are some of the typical aromas of these wines. As one can imagine, a great deal of seafood is available on the island but one of the islands’ specialties is rabbit done Ischia style.

Stylistically, the wines are light and crisp. A perfect accompaniment to the local foods and the weather. While finding these wines outside of the area may be challenging, some producers to look for are Pietratorcia and D’Ambra. D’Ambra’s ‘Tenuta Frassitelli’ Biancolella and ‘Euposia’ Forastera are ones to look for.

If you find yourself touring the area, a few relaxing days in Ischia may be just what you need to recharge. I recommend some local wine and a large plate of peppered mussels (Impepata di Cozze) after a spa day. Doesn’t get much better than that.